Potato pancakes are one of the most versatile dishes –perfect for brunch, lunch or even dinner. For Zuza Zak, they are the taste of childhood.
“In Poland where I was born, potato pancakes are one of those dishes that everyone makes,” Zuza says. “They’re found right through eastern Europe and the Baltic states but each country has a different name for them. In the book, I’ve called them latkes, the Jewish name, because that word is familiar all over the world – although serving them with sausage, as I do here, is definitely not Jewish!”
Zuza’s new book, Amber & Rye, A Baltic Food Journey, explores the cuisine of the Baltic states, where Scandinavia meets Eastern Europe. Zuza recently discovered that she had a much closer connection to the Baltic states than she knew.
“My grandmother had grown up in Lithuania but always said she was Polish. However, when my father did a DNA test recently, we discovered that he was actually half-Balt. I was already interested in the Baltic states, because they are having such a food renaissance, but that spurred me to delve deeper.”
Amber & Rye is the result of an extensive research trip through Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania. As with her previous book, Polska: New Polish Cooking, Zuza says Amber & Rye is designed to showcase an underappreciated cuisine.
“For a very long time, eastern Europe and the Baltic states both suffered from an image problem when it came to food – it was a post-Soviet hangover. However, these countries have long culinary heritages focused on the local, the seasonal, on foraging – all the things we in the West are getting more interested in.”
Potato latkes with smoked sausage and spinach
50g (1¾oz) smoked kiełbasa-style sausage, cubed
200g (7oz) spinach leaves
Squeeze of lemon juice
Salt and black pepper
For the latkes
2 medium potatoes
2 French shallots, finely chopped
1 egg, lightly beaten
2 tbspn plain (all-purpose) flour
Rapeseed oil, for frying
Preheat the oven to 100°C (200°F).
For the latkes, coarsely grate the potatoes into a large bowl. Add the shallots, egg and flour and mix well. Season generously with salt and pepper.
Heat a thin film of rapeseed oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Once it’s hot, add tablespoonfuls of the potato mixture to the pan, working in batches and taking care not to overcrowd the pan. Flatten the latkes with a fork and fry for 2 to 3 minutes on the first side, until golden, then flip and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes on the other side. Drain the cooked latkes on paper towel and keep warm in the oven.
Add a little more oil to the frying pan and add the sausage. Fry until it crisps up, then add the spinach. Once the spinach has wilted (this will only take a minute or so), add a squeeze of lemon juice and season with salt and pepper.
Serve the sausage and spinach on top of the latkes.
Serves 4
